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BUILD IT, WITH FIXES

Two-seater with a center table (~250 lb), prone to tipping — anchor it.

Solid for normal use — holds ~250 lb; just don't overload it — and it tips easily, so read the tip-over note below.

  • Cost$100-$150
  • SkillBeginner
  • TimeA weekend
  • Holds~250 lb

The honest take

What the plan doesn't tell you

• The biggest challenge will be keeping the two chair frames and the center table aligned and square during assembly. Work on a flat surface.
• Cedar is a softwood and splits easily. You must pre-drill every screw hole, especially near the ends of boards.
• The curved cuts for the arms and back slats require a steady hand with the jigsaw. Practice on a piece of scrap wood first to get the feel.
• This chair will be heavy and awkward to move once fully assembled. Plan to build it near its final location.

This is a solid beginner plan for a classic outdoor project. The choice of cedar is spot-on for weather resistance. Relying only on screws and glue for a double-wide chair is a bit light on joinery, but it should hold up if you use quality exterior-grade fasteners and adhesive. The plan's specific orientation guidance in 10 of the steps is excellent, as getting the angles right is critical for both comfort and strength. Pay close attention during assembly, as keeping a piece this large square can be a challenge.

Who it's for

Who should build this — and who should skip it

First-timer friendly — a solid early project with no fussy joinery. Outdoor lounge seating for an adult (or two). Skip it if you need it to carry much past ~250 lb — and treat it as a piece to anchor to the wall, not a free-standing one.

The checks

What we checked, and what held

Holds ~250 lb safely

Finished size 36H x 48W x 33.25D

Suitable for light household use; avoid concentrated overloading.

Governing member
Front seat support
Material
Pine
Cross section
6.75 in × 0.75 in
Orientation
Flat
Clear span
22.0 in
Load applied
100 lb
Measured sag
0.0417 in
Working load
~250 lb
Finished weight
34.8 lb

Load case ~100 lbs on this member - its share of a ~250 lb load on the whole piece

Every check the analysis ran, and how it came out
CheckResult
Bending in the front seat support — 50% of allowablePASS
Sag in the same member — L/527 against an L/120 limitPASS
Left ArmrestPASS
Right ArmrestPASS
Left Armrest TrimPASS
Right Armrest TrimPASS
Tip-over resistance, unloaded — ratio 0.77 against a 1.0 targetADVISORY

Conservative run Checked a second time against stricter standards, the same member reads L/351 at 75% of allowable — PASS

Caution

Install anti-tip hardware (wall anchor)

Alternative: Add 18 lbs ballast to base

Model coverage 62% of this design resolved to a load path down to the ground in our model (16/26 surfaces have load path to ground). Parts outside that path were checked for their own strength but not for what they carry.

Engineering Notes

The structural reality. We checked the part that works hardest here — the pine front seat support — as a loaded beam over its real working span. Under a realistic in-use load it barely flexes — well within furniture limits, deflecting only about 1/527 of its span, with bending stress at roughly 50% of what the wood allows. In short, it should feel firm and stay that way.

Sound for normal use — just don’t overload it. Our conservative estimate puts the safe working load at ~250 lbs — enough for an adult sitting down with margin to spare. Real-world strength depends just as much on assembly: glue every joint, keep the frame square, and drive your fasteners fully home.

These are planning estimates, not a stamped engineering analysis. Wood varies board to board — for anything safety-critical, check with a qualified pro.

Furniture mode, analysis v7.0. Planning estimates — check anything safety-critical with a qualified pro. How we analyze plans.

Build tips

Before you build

  • Use a high-quality waterproof wood glue (like Titebond III) on every joint before screwing. The glue provides significant long-term strength.
  • When attaching the seat and back slats, cut a small piece of scrap wood to use as a spacer. This ensures your gaps are consistent and gives a professional look.
  • Check for square constantly. Use a large framing square after connecting the main leg and arm assemblies before adding the slats.

Reference

Materials & cut list

Lumber & sheet goods

  • 1x8x6′ lumber (qty: 2)
  • 1x6x6′ lumber (qty: 1)
  • 1x4x8′ lumber (qty: 7)
  • 2x2x6′ lumber (qty: 1)

Hardware

  • 1-1/4 in wood screws
  • 1-5/8 in wood screws
  • 2-1/2 in wood screws
  • Wood glue
  • Wood filler
  • Brad nails
View Full Cut List & Materials
Part Name Qty Dimensions Material
Legs (A) 2 33.25" x 7.25" x 0.75" 1x8 Lumber
Frame (B) 1 46.5" x 6.75" x 0.75" 1x8 Lumber
Frame (B) 1 45" x 5.5" x 0.75" 1x6 Lumber
Frame (B) 2 19.75" x 3.5" x 0.75" 1x4 Lumber
Legs (C) 2 20.75" x 3.5" x 0.75" 1x4 Lumber
Support (D) 1 48" x 1.5" x 1.5" 2x2 Lumber
Armrests (E) 2 24.5" x 3.5" x 0.75" 1x4 Lumber
Armrests (E) 2 23.25" x 3.5" x 0.75" 1x4 Lumber
Backrest (F) 8 29.25" x 3.5" x 0.75" 1x4 Lumber
Backrest (F) 2 16" x 3.5" x 0.75" 1x4 Lumber
Table (H) 3 13" x 3.5" x 0.75" 1x4 Lumber
Table (H) 4 24.5" x 3.5" x 0.75" 1x4 Lumber
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    Original plan

    About this design

    This design is Jack’s work, not ours. We review free DIY plans and add the engineering: load paths, spans, joints, and the fixes worth making before you cut. We do not republish the build instructions. For the steps, the photographs and the author’s own notes, go to the source.

    Read the original plan at howtospecialist.com

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